Everybody loves roses - formal gardens, cutting gardens, climbing on trellises and arbors, abundantly blooming hedges . . . possibilities are endless. Don't be afraid to consider roses in your landscape plan.

1. Roses require at least 6 hours of direct sun per day, and the more sun, the better. This is not an option - if you have only shade or partial sun, choose another plant type.
2. Frequent fertilization is necessary for optimal blooming. Fertilize monthly April-August with a product containing ample amounts of phosphorous to develop a strong root system ensuring survival over our harsh winters
3. Pruning technique is not difficult - each species has certain requirements that are easy to implement. Check with your local garden center or nursery for proper techniques according to variety.
4. Organic controls for cultural problems:
   
   1. Fungus or powdery mildew are best controlled with a solution of baking soda and water applied weekly on the foliage in the morning hours.
   2. Black spot can be avoided with proper watering techniques. Never water the foliage. Black spot travels with water from plant to plant. Pick off diseased leaves and discard away from the planted area.
   3. Mulching is crucial for rose garden success and aids in proper moisture retention, cutting down on the amount of disease and insect infestation. 2" of mulch (cedar recommended) annually will suffice.
   4. Insect problems can be avoided with simple procedures such as manual elimination of aphids or encouraging ladybug activity.
   5. Japanese beetles should be manually removed and immersed into a solution for drowning. Beetle bags are not recommended unless the entire neighborhood utilizes the technique. Without neighborhood cooperation, you will only succeed in attracting all the beetles to your property.
5. Winter care is crucial to the survival of your rosebushes. Generally speaking, most roses should be mounded with soil after the ground is frozen. This is an important requirement. Mounding with soil prior to soil freeze will hold the warmth in the root zone and then freeze the roots when temperatures go below freezing. Mounding the soil after ground freeze insulates the root system and keeps the roots in a 'refrigeration' state. Adding mulch after ground freeze aids insulation and protects against the freeze/thaw syndrome, windburn and dehydration.